Evaporust Rust Remover Review
I recently used this to refinish an old hand plane. This stuff just works! I had to let it soak for a couple of days - but man, all I had to do was rinse off the pieces then lightly use a stainless still brush to remove the remaining paint.
I have used navel jelly, wire wheels, WD 40. They all pale greatly in comparison. If you have something small that is heavily rusted, and can be submerged, this is what you want!
General Finishing Salad Bowl Finish Review
Last summer I was working on a cutting board my girlfriend and looked deeply into what I could use to finish it. I considered the normal oil and wax, however that needs to be reapplied after some time of use. I then stumbled upon this salad bowl finish by General Finishes and all I can say is WOW! The cutting board I made for her last summer still looks great and fully water proof.
This is after almost daily use for almost 9 months and I have yet to need to refinish it. This product is 100% water proof and non toxic when dry. I figure I would share with everyone what a great product this really is and great it makes the wood really pop when you put it on! Enjoy.
Stanley Sweetheart No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane Review
I recently urgently needed a plane that would flatten 18” wide maple that tiger, ambrosia, spalting, some other undefined figure. My Stanley No. 7 was on a real tear(out) even with blade sharpening and Lee Valley couldn’t deliver the same day, especially on Sunday. So I went to my local Woodcraft and a No. 7 Lie Nielsen looked good except my discount coupon would not apply. Given I had a fully refundable trial period I opted for the #62. (Yes I read the reviews). In short, the plane is a keeper but with some fiddling.
On the bench I could get consistent shaving down to about 2 mils. Less than that was possible but the trailing surface was getting scratched a little. Kept on playing but was deciding not to keep the plane – until I took the plane apart (and read the manual).
What I found was that the scratches were caused by some material at the back of the throat/mouth and just peering under the base. I removed this with a fine file. The lever cap is aluminum and when examining the underside, the cap was arched where it was holding down the forward part of the blade. This meant the two outer corners were holding down the blade. Even though the blade is .188” A2 I decided to even out the front edge. Using more than one straight edge I visually checked the base for flatness. The worst was some barely visible light measuring front to back in the middle of the plane and just before the rear handle. My #7 was much worse.
About reading the manual, Stanley suggests you hone the blade even though it is fully sharpened at the factory. I did so and reassembled the plane. There isn’t much to reassemble but I can say that the blade seats very well. Lateral blade adjustment is smooth and precise and, my guess, it won’t be a much used feature. One (I) has to make sure that the blade is adjusted to final depth outward from the mouth. This lets you snug the lever cap screw and not over tighten into or bend the aluminum (i didn’t learn from experience but just guessed based on my past history with aluminum and screws). I do wish the cap were steel though.
The best shavings I could get and repeatedly adjust was .0006” with analog micrometers, or .0005 with digital micrometers. On the plus side I stopped at .008”. Smooth, smooth, smooth was the surface after the thinner cuts. Another customer was trying the Lie Nielsen and I now am on a planing par with that plane.
Stanley should not have any scuzz at all protruding below the mouth, or any other place for that matter, Not honing the blade is on me. I don’t know if leveling the front of the lever cap contributed but i do know that the cap screw doesn’t have to be Tarzaned on to provide hold down leverage. While the plane is almost half the price of the Lie Nielsen, its value is much higher.
So all in all, a 4 out of 5 stars.
On the bench I could get consistent shaving down to about 2 mils. Less than that was possible but the trailing surface was getting scratched a little. Kept on playing but was deciding not to keep the plane – until I took the plane apart (and read the manual).
What I found was that the scratches were caused by some material at the back of the throat/mouth and just peering under the base. I removed this with a fine file. The lever cap is aluminum and when examining the underside, the cap was arched where it was holding down the forward part of the blade. This meant the two outer corners were holding down the blade. Even though the blade is .188” A2 I decided to even out the front edge. Using more than one straight edge I visually checked the base for flatness. The worst was some barely visible light measuring front to back in the middle of the plane and just before the rear handle. My #7 was much worse.
About reading the manual, Stanley suggests you hone the blade even though it is fully sharpened at the factory. I did so and reassembled the plane. There isn’t much to reassemble but I can say that the blade seats very well. Lateral blade adjustment is smooth and precise and, my guess, it won’t be a much used feature. One (I) has to make sure that the blade is adjusted to final depth outward from the mouth. This lets you snug the lever cap screw and not over tighten into or bend the aluminum (i didn’t learn from experience but just guessed based on my past history with aluminum and screws). I do wish the cap were steel though.
The best shavings I could get and repeatedly adjust was .0006” with analog micrometers, or .0005 with digital micrometers. On the plus side I stopped at .008”. Smooth, smooth, smooth was the surface after the thinner cuts. Another customer was trying the Lie Nielsen and I now am on a planing par with that plane.
Stanley should not have any scuzz at all protruding below the mouth, or any other place for that matter, Not honing the blade is on me. I don’t know if leveling the front of the lever cap contributed but i do know that the cap screw doesn’t have to be Tarzaned on to provide hold down leverage. While the plane is almost half the price of the Lie Nielsen, its value is much higher.
So all in all, a 4 out of 5 stars.
Magswitch Feather Board review
I had been eying off the Magswitch featherboard in magazines for some time and thought what a great invention it was. I don’t really understand how you can turn a magnet on and off, other than an electro magnet, simply by turning a knob but you can with the Magswitch.
I purchased the 30mm Magswitch Pro2 this week. It consists of two powerful earth magnets associated with a featherboard in a type of durable plastic molding. An optional vertical attachment can be fitted. I purchased both items.
-It can be located anywhere on your table saw, router station, jointer, bandsaw table etc. provided they are magnetically compatible eg steel. If you have aluminum or allow table beds you are out of luck with this tool. My router table has a MDF bed but with a little modification I can add a piece of steel to accommodate the Magswitch.
-The Magswitch is surprisingly powerful, the manufacturer states the 30mm Mag-Jig (a different device) has a gripping force of 155lb. It don’t know the gripping force of the two magnets on the Magswitch but it is surprisingly strong.
-A big advantage is that it can be set up very easily and quickly.
A for sure five start rating!
I purchased the 30mm Magswitch Pro2 this week. It consists of two powerful earth magnets associated with a featherboard in a type of durable plastic molding. An optional vertical attachment can be fitted. I purchased both items.
-It can be located anywhere on your table saw, router station, jointer, bandsaw table etc. provided they are magnetically compatible eg steel. If you have aluminum or allow table beds you are out of luck with this tool. My router table has a MDF bed but with a little modification I can add a piece of steel to accommodate the Magswitch.
-The Magswitch is surprisingly powerful, the manufacturer states the 30mm Mag-Jig (a different device) has a gripping force of 155lb. It don’t know the gripping force of the two magnets on the Magswitch but it is surprisingly strong.
-A big advantage is that it can be set up very easily and quickly.
A for sure five start rating!
Wixey Digital Angle Gauge review
Here’s a great little tool for setting the angle on most everything.
Bandsaw, Tablesaw, Mitersaw, Radial Arm Saw…
The best part is the precision and speed in which you can do it.
There are magnets on the bottom which allows you to stick it to anything steel.
I will use a table saw for example here, but you can apply the same to all tools.
If what you are trying to set is aluminum or something other than steel then you will need to hold it place.
It makes changing the angle of my table saw blade a no sweat operation and I find myself
changing it without hesitation. I used to hate changing it since it involved getting a square or protractor.
With the magnets you can also store it close. Just stick it somewhere convenient on your table saw.
Great on the bandsaw table too!
Festool ETS 150 Sander review
The last random orbital sander I bought was from a retailer known as ‘Handyman’.
This Festool ETS 150/3 EQ is an amazing machine. Its does not even feel like the old Black and Decker that it replaced, of course that was 40 years ago. From the electronic speed control to the internal dust extraction system this the BEST random orbital sander that I have personally handled.
When combined with the Festool CT 36 mobile dust extractor the combination of the the two really take the “chore” out of sanding my outdoor redwood patio benches.
This Festool ETS 150/3 EQ is an amazing machine. Its does not even feel like the old Black and Decker that it replaced, of course that was 40 years ago. From the electronic speed control to the internal dust extraction system this the BEST random orbital sander that I have personally handled.
When combined with the Festool CT 36 mobile dust extractor the combination of the the two really take the “chore” out of sanding my outdoor redwood patio benches.
Forrest WW10407125 Woodworker II 10-Inch 40 Tooth .125 Kerf Saw Blade Review
Blades have never been a high priority for me. I have been using cheap blades from home depot up to now because I didn’t think a hundred dollar blade would make a huge difference in the quality of my work. Well, I found out that I could use my Amex reward points to shop at Amazon, so I bought this blade since it was on my wishlist and I figured it was essentially “free” to me at that point.
I just got it today, used it for about 10 minutes and am already ready to say that it was totally worth it, and if I actually had to shell out the hundred bucks for it, I would. I did some crosscut and rip cuts in some scrap red oak and the finish is almost unbelievably smooth. Some other guys have said that they can skip the jointer and go straight to glue up and I believe them. I also believe what I’ve read about going straight to 220 paper.
The blade is a beast, it’s a lot heavier than my other blades and I can tell by looking at the teeth that the carbide is a lot thicker. I did not get the blade stiffener that sits on the arbor next to the blade, but I have trouble seeing why you would need it with the way this blade is built. The blade cuts VERY smoothly as well. I will add a disclaimer that my current blades are probably pretty dull, so take that however you want to, but switching from one to the other is like night and day.
Overall, I don’t think I could ask for more and am very satisfied with this addition. :)
Porter Cable 12 Amp 4-Inch by 24-Inch Belt Sander with Cloth Dust Bag Review
This is an easy review as I have used this sander for years in cabinet shops but I haven’t got around to buying one for myself. It is one of those tools that you do without but shouldn’t. My wife picked this sander up for my fathers day gift. This machine hasn’t changed much in the many years that I have used it witch is a good thing. I like Porter Cable products, but not all. This sander they got right, right out of the gate. This sander has lots of power,good balance.Loading a new belt and aligning the belt is a breeze!
This is a heavy machine. At first it feels clumsy but once you get used to it the weight works in your favor by letting the tool do the work.Because of the weight their is no pressing needed witch keeps the belt from loading up and promotes long tool life.In the 12 plus years I have used this sander not one machine went out for repair and we had 5 of them.
Freud Box Joint Cutter Set review
This blade is great for cutting box joints and dados. I prefer the 1/4 inch cut, the 3/8 inch is seems not as controlled (it is) but I still stick to 1/4. I tried this in a crosscut and a rip cut, both cuts were excellent. I was just too lazy to change my blade for 4 cuts. I believe that for the price $65 at Amazon it is the best bargain out there.
A purist would probably use this set for dados or box joint cutting only, but I a true woodklutz ripped 24” that was as good as you could get.
A purist would probably use this set for dados or box joint cutting only, but I a true woodklutz ripped 24” that was as good as you could get.
Incra V-120 Miter Gauge Review
A couple weeks ago I got a new (to me) Unisaw and was finally able to install my Incra gauge in a saw. After taking some time to perfect the fit of the miter bar (more on that in a bit…) and to square the gauge to the blade, I finally am ready to pass judgment on the miter gauge.
1. Accuracy—With just a slight adjustment, it’s perfect. Couldn’t ask for any better
2. Value—At the full price, it’s a bit steep. But I suppose that’s the price you pay for accuracy.
3. Customer Support—I mentioned that this product had been used in my router table before being moved to my table saw. Well, after a long time being adjusted for the router table, the nylon Glidelock bushings had siezed onto the adjustment screws—no matter how much force I exerted, I couldn’t get the screws to loosen up. Finally, I e-mailed Incra. I received a very prompt, very thoughtful and detailed response from Mark, Field Operations Manager at Incra. He suggested that applying some heat to the nylon bushings would cause them to loosen up and allow the adjustment screws to turn. A few seconds with a heat gun on each of the four bushings proved successful and allowed me to get a perfect fit in my table saw!
Delta T2 Fence System Review
I’ve got an older Craftsman table saw. The stock fence is a joke, but I’ve made do. I finally decided to do something about it, and a T2 was it. It came pretty well packed via UPS. The box was a bit caved in, but the parts were fine. Excellent manual, very clear, real English. The fence is made in Taiwan. Fit and finish appear to be excellent.
There are two ways to mount the fence to this TS. One is to drill holes in the rails to match the holes already in the TS top. The other is to drill holes in the TS to match the holes in the rails. I chose the latter. There are then two options on that. One is to align the zero on the scale with the blade and drill all new holes. The other is to use one existing hole and drill the rest. The advantage of the latter is that you can put a screw in the one hole which holds up the rail at one point and then support the other end with something like an adjustable roller stand. The disadvantage is you have to move the scale. I chose to do that, although if I had to do it again, I’d probably drill all new holes. When I supported the rail as described, the gap between the bottom of the fence and the top of the TS was small, less than 1/8”. When I was done, the gap is more like 3/16”. Not sure how that happened, but the gap is more than I would have liked. It was very easy to align the rail, drill the holes, and mount them. Less than an hour, more like 45 minutes. I used my Bosch cordless drill, a new bit and WD-40 as a lubricant. I went slow, but steady. I did chuck a smaller bit in the drill and used it to drill a starter “dent”, as the full size drill bit didn’t want to stay on the center punch divot. Only one of my holes didn’t come out centered, and 10 seconds with a round file fixed that.
This TS has stamped steel wings. There are steel angle brackets on each corner, with round head bolts through the wings. I had to remove all the bolts on the front and back, and the rail hole on one side is just about dead center on the END of the angle bracket, meaning I had to drill through the bracket on half the hole. That was actually harder than drilling through the CI. It wasn’t very hard, and with a washer on the bolt supplied with the fence, the rail is stable. The wings appear to be fine, but I’m going to replace them with something else pretty soon.
After mounting the rails, mounting the square stock to the front rail went smoothly. The T square fence dropped right in and moved smoothly. Alignment of fence to miter and square to table was easy: it was close to begin with, the adjustment is simple, and the instructions were clear. With my Align-it, I have the fence parallel to the miter within .001. My good square shows no light coming through with a flashlight behind it.
Moving the scale was easy. I ran a piece of blue painters tape along the bottom of the scale as a reference line. I slid the fence over to touch the blade, centered the plastic indicator line in its slot, and marked where it should go on the square stock. Peeling up the scale was simple, and laying back down in the right place was straightforward. It went down very close to where it should have; final alignment by moving the plastic was about 1/16”. I had to move the scale over around 4”, so I gained a bit on the right, and lost a bit on the left, which is better than the other way around.
What a difference! I knew the stock fence was junk, but the T2 is an amazing upgrade. It’s much more substantial, doesn’t move when you lock it, much smoother motion and more range.
I highly recommend this upgrade to an older TS with a stock fence. The price is very reasonable, the quality is very high, and the installation is not bad at all. That’s my install on the right. With my EB-3 miter gauge, and a decent blade, this is a very capable TS.
Olson Bandsaw Blades review
I was beginning to think I would never have much luck resawing on the bandsaw. I had been using Delta blades that were pretty well worn. I wanted a blade that would slice 3/16” veneers that I could plane down to a consistent 1/8” thick for laminating leg stock.
This blade pack fits the bill. Resaw with ease. This is a 3 tpi X 1/2”wide hook blade with a raker set. As such it is very aggressive and cuts quickly. Yet the freshly cut surface only varies by 1/32” or less, and yields uniform thickness stock. The gauge of this blade is .025 and feels notably thicker than my Delta blades. This 93-1/2 ” blade fits Jet, Delta, Craftsman, Grizzly Bandsaws.
It will surely dull quicker than a carbide tipped blade, but this will get me started with resawing.
This is a nice blade at a good price point. FIVE star review!
This blade pack fits the bill. Resaw with ease. This is a 3 tpi X 1/2”wide hook blade with a raker set. As such it is very aggressive and cuts quickly. Yet the freshly cut surface only varies by 1/32” or less, and yields uniform thickness stock. The gauge of this blade is .025 and feels notably thicker than my Delta blades. This 93-1/2 ” blade fits Jet, Delta, Craftsman, Grizzly Bandsaws.
It will surely dull quicker than a carbide tipped blade, but this will get me started with resawing.
This is a nice blade at a good price point. FIVE star review!
Bosch 1293D 1/2-Sheet Sander review
Bosch 1/2 sheet sander
After using 1/4 sheet sanders or random orbit sanders on my table tops I usually end up with a bit of a ripple when I varnish or lacquer the top. I have a planer but even after planing I always seem to have these slight ripples after sanding. In Flexner’s book he uses what looks like a half sheet sander (can’t confirm, a WC owner borrowed my book I bought from him after telling him how good it was) and a carpenter friend said he really liked the 1/2 sheet Bosch so I took the plunge and bought it.
The good.
It creates an extremely smooth, flat as a mirror surface. I start with pencil stripes on the surface and then sand with 100 grit until it all disappears. If I planed the surface then I just lightly go over with a 150 grit to get rid of the little knife ripples that show up in staining. In the past I found turning the sander at an angle gave me the smoothest surface. Going parrallel always left lines at the edges of the sander. Having the corners of the sander on the sides of the direction of movement feathered the edges. Turning the Bosch at an angle creates a totally smooth surface with no sanding lines. Once totally flat, going through 150 and 220 sands out the previous sanding scratches really quickly. The scratch pattern is excellent for such a large sander but if I want a nearly invisible scratch pattern when staining with pigment I finish with a PC 330 Speed bloc 1/4 sheet sander. Pigments get caught in the tiny sanding scratches and the PC seems to give me the smoothest scratch pattern without going to a Festool. Of course I finish sanding by hand going with the grain but even that requires just a quick light sanding If I’m not staining I’ve gone straight to the finish from the Bosch. Doesn’t seem to make a difference going to the PC and hand sanding if I’m not staining with pigments.
It has a trigger lock that works the way it should, not all work this nicely. Hand grips in the front and back as well as on top in the center. I like to lightly hold it in the center as I find I tend to lean on the front or back grips and have to concentrate on keep the machine balanced between the front and back.
All in all, definitely a 5 star machine!
After using 1/4 sheet sanders or random orbit sanders on my table tops I usually end up with a bit of a ripple when I varnish or lacquer the top. I have a planer but even after planing I always seem to have these slight ripples after sanding. In Flexner’s book he uses what looks like a half sheet sander (can’t confirm, a WC owner borrowed my book I bought from him after telling him how good it was) and a carpenter friend said he really liked the 1/2 sheet Bosch so I took the plunge and bought it.
The good.
It creates an extremely smooth, flat as a mirror surface. I start with pencil stripes on the surface and then sand with 100 grit until it all disappears. If I planed the surface then I just lightly go over with a 150 grit to get rid of the little knife ripples that show up in staining. In the past I found turning the sander at an angle gave me the smoothest surface. Going parrallel always left lines at the edges of the sander. Having the corners of the sander on the sides of the direction of movement feathered the edges. Turning the Bosch at an angle creates a totally smooth surface with no sanding lines. Once totally flat, going through 150 and 220 sands out the previous sanding scratches really quickly. The scratch pattern is excellent for such a large sander but if I want a nearly invisible scratch pattern when staining with pigment I finish with a PC 330 Speed bloc 1/4 sheet sander. Pigments get caught in the tiny sanding scratches and the PC seems to give me the smoothest scratch pattern without going to a Festool. Of course I finish sanding by hand going with the grain but even that requires just a quick light sanding If I’m not staining I’ve gone straight to the finish from the Bosch. Doesn’t seem to make a difference going to the PC and hand sanding if I’m not staining with pigments.
It has a trigger lock that works the way it should, not all work this nicely. Hand grips in the front and back as well as on top in the center. I like to lightly hold it in the center as I find I tend to lean on the front or back grips and have to concentrate on keep the machine balanced between the front and back.
All in all, definitely a 5 star machine!
Rockler Abrasive cleaning stick review
I am certain most of you either have used these or know about them, but… for those of you who do not:
I began using a combination belt / disk sander in my home shop a couple of months ago, so I ordered one of these cleaning sticks soon after since my belt was loading up a bit. When I used it on both the 4” belt and the 8” disk, they were almost instantly de-loaded and restore to like new condition. People, quite frankly I was actually a bit amazed at how well this piece of crepe rubber (or whatever it is) would do that to that… lol
If it weren’t so cheap and long-lasting, I’d go to k-mart and get a pair of fake Clark Wallabees to see if the sole of those shoes would work as well. j/k But that’s what it looks like. :=)
Since then, I have cleaned / de-loaded anything and everything with sandpaper abrasive in my shop (palm sander, ROS, Sandblaster paper on the little holder, etc.) with totally excellent results.
But wait ! The best thing of all: We had a job to refinish about 900 sf of oak hardwood flooring that was stained and finished about 30 or so years ago. Since we were going back natural (no stain) with Rexthane finish, we had to grind the old finish and stain as well as level the flooring for the new finish. Basically we had a bit more rough sanding than would be required if the floor were new raw and had never been stained. The sand paper for the big belt sander will eat your wallet. So after we’d gone through 6 of them, I got a call that we needed more. I sent them to my house, telling them to cut my cleaning stick in half to take with them to try it on the big 35 grit paper. They did and called me back to say that is was miraculous and that they were totally cleaned and de-loaded most of the grit was still ready for duty. Mitch asked me why I would hide such a thing since it will save so much money in abrasives cost. I explained that I was a newbie to it as well and how glad I was that it worked on the big stuff.
Not only did they use it on the grits of the large floor belt sander, but is did exactly the same for the edge sander and later the vibrating screen sander in between coats.
I paid $6.99 on sale through Rockler, but I am certain they are available elsewhere, from different makers, and possibly even locally (I haven’t checked).
This is good stuff, y’all. Try some before you toss the loaded paper out.
Grizzly G0555 14" Bandsaw
Grizzly calls this the “Ultimate” bandsaw. That’s a bold statement to live up to. I own many Grizzly tools and I’m very happy with all of them. This is a really good bandsaw but I can’t call it the Ultimate. There are a few changes that would push into the Ultimate category. First, I’m not that happy with the fence. It looks nice, but it does have a bit of play in it. When I clamp it down the far end will move sometimes. I have to keep a close eye on it when I’m setting it. Dust collection for the lower wheel compartment is good, but most of the dust collects just under the top and has to be cleaned manually. Maybe this is a flaw with most bandsaws, but it is annoying. The guide bearings seem a little cheap. There is a little too much play in bearing adjustments. I still gave this bandsaw 4-stars, because of the price and the “flaws” are things I can deal with.
Some of the features of the bandsaw are are:
– 1 HP motor
– 2 speeds
– Cutting capacity/throat: 13-1/2”
– Wheels: Fully balanced cast aluminum with rubber tires
– Maximum cutting height: 6”
I also added the 6” Riser Block to mine, so I can resaw up to 12”. I mention the “Fully Balanced Wheels”, because they really were balanced. When I got the bandsaw I did a complete tune-up on it. Balancing the wheels was one thing I didn’t have to deal with.
Grizzly G1006 2 HP Mill/Drill Review
NOTE: The G1006 mill and the G1007 mill are EXACTLY THE SAME MILL. The G1007 has the addition of an X axis power feed. So this review applies for both.
First off I generally like this machine. The few problems I’ve found can be worked around or are just fit/finish pet peeves. Yes it’s intended as a mettle working machine. But I bought it specifically for precision cutting wooden mechanical parts. So mine is a woodworking machine ;). If you’re upgrading from a drill press and this is what you can afford, I say go for it without reservation. On the other hand, if you can afford a full size knee mill and are willing to move the thing, don’t cheep out. Buy the knee mill. Here is why:
Vertical head adjustment – The head can be moved vertically on the pipe column via a hand crank. This serves the same function as raising/lowering the knee on a full size mill. While this makes gross adjustment of the spindle to table quick and easy, it’s also sloppy. That set up with the head on a pipe saves a BUNCH of cost. The problem is it also allows the head to swivel when you loosen the bolts to adjust the head height. That means all the work you did aligning your spindle to center is lost. You can get around this with planning and experience, but you’ll want to think through your cuts before you get started.
Plastic feed hold levers on X cross slide – OK. so they work. But they also flex when you put any kind on pressure on them. I just don’t see these holding up over time. Easy to replace with cap screws from the local hardware store. Then use a small second hand socket wrench for adjustment. Again a $10 solution.
All in all for this review, 4 out of 5 stars.
Kreg Deck Jig review
I bought this product because I thought it would improve the look of the pool deck I am building and although I am not finished yet I think it has. The whole purpose of the jig is too allow the user to screw down decking without showing the screw and that’s exactly what it did.
My decking is made from 5/4 pressure treated boards. There are 10 joists each spaced 16 on centers and there are 2 screws per joist which gives 20 screws per board. To boards feel as if the are held down well. I was not happy with many of my decking boards and many were twisted and cupped. It made keeping even spacing hard. You can actually see in the picture under my dogs left paw that there is one board which has almost no gap on the left the a huge gap on the right. I am going to change that board before I am finished. It was perfectly strait for 10’ then had a huge twist in the last 2’. This was the part that made me nervous. Having the boards screwed from the sides I was worried that when I forced a board into place I would get cracking and screw heads popping out but luckily I did not. I should have returned some boards but the distance to the store and the fact the wood was delivered… by the time I paid for delivery for 3 or 4 boards it is the same price and buying new boards myself.
I think it made a great finish and I am totally happy with the result. Why not 5 stars then, because it is slow. If you are thinking about taking contracts with this tool… don’t. I could have finished my decking in 1/3 the time by just driving the screws through the top. If you are a contractor and time is money and you want to secure the decking so the screws don’t show then do something else. There are expensive nail guns that do this and there are other systems which are probably faster. The money spent on the expensive tool will be made back in time saved shortly.
NuMax SP123 23 Gauge 1-Inch Pinner
ust purchased a Numax SP123 pinner from Amazon for under $30.
I had a project to apply some fine moulding which would be split by 18 guage brads and did a search on pinners. Did not want to spend alot as I did not know if I would ever use it again and found this one and by looking it appeared to be good value.
Anyway, got it along with some 3/4” pins and it really works great so far. It will shoot 1/2’ to 1” pins and has has a setting which adjust the depth of the magazine to support the different length pins. It came with a quick connect fitting installed which was the correct size for my hoses which was a plus.
The body is heavy aluminum and very little plastic anywhere else. It only has one safety near the trigger so once disengaged you have to be careful as it will fire (no push tip pressure safety) and no padded tip, but had no problem with marring the fine moulding.
It sets the pin just below the surface and using very little filler the holes were invisible after finishing nor did the pin split the moulding.
I gave it five stars based on price and quality for the money, even though it had a funky safety and lacked the tip cushion.
Good value for the $.
I had a project to apply some fine moulding which would be split by 18 guage brads and did a search on pinners. Did not want to spend alot as I did not know if I would ever use it again and found this one and by looking it appeared to be good value.
Anyway, got it along with some 3/4” pins and it really works great so far. It will shoot 1/2’ to 1” pins and has has a setting which adjust the depth of the magazine to support the different length pins. It came with a quick connect fitting installed which was the correct size for my hoses which was a plus.
The body is heavy aluminum and very little plastic anywhere else. It only has one safety near the trigger so once disengaged you have to be careful as it will fire (no push tip pressure safety) and no padded tip, but had no problem with marring the fine moulding.
It sets the pin just below the surface and using very little filler the holes were invisible after finishing nor did the pin split the moulding.
I gave it five stars based on price and quality for the money, even though it had a funky safety and lacked the tip cushion.
Good value for the $.
Porter-Cable 557 Plate Joiner
After trying to do every single project that I wanted to do without using biscuits, I finally hit a wall that forced me into buying a biscuit joiner. So I went to every place that I could find the joiners for sale, I looked and did a general over view of them all and this one stood out to me because of the lack of up and down play that is not it in it un- like the others I looked at. So all in all, I love this tool and think it is one of my best purchases for $178 with free shipping from Amazon.
Carter Clean Sweep Bandsaw brush
I received one of these for Christmas and as simple as it is it does the trick. I installed it where they suggested, drilling a small pilot hole first then screwing it into the blade guide. It does a good job cleaning the tire and seems to be well made and should last a long time. I really like Carter band saw accessories. I give it 5 stars..
Triton MOF001C 2-1/4-Horsepower Precision Router Kit
I am so impressed with this router.
I was looking for a permanent under the table router, but I didn’t want to pay $200 + for the router and another $300 + for a router lift. The Triton includes the crank handle. just drill the hole for it, insert crank and raise and lower. I also like the fact that the collet is automatically locked at full height making bit changes really easy. The only thing I wish for (and from any router co.) is that they include a template to help affix to the router plate. I got a little off on my drilling and ended up buying a new router plate.
When I heard about this router and read the reviews I jumped right on it.
I was looking for a permanent under the table router, but I didn’t want to pay $200 + for the router and another $300 + for a router lift. The Triton includes the crank handle. just drill the hole for it, insert crank and raise and lower. I also like the fact that the collet is automatically locked at full height making bit changes really easy. The only thing I wish for (and from any router co.) is that they include a template to help affix to the router plate. I got a little off on my drilling and ended up buying a new router plate.
When I heard about this router and read the reviews I jumped right on it.
Leigh Super FMT Mortise and Tenon Jig
I was recently at my local Woodcraft and they only had a display model so I was reluctant to buy but I went ahead and bit the bullet and bought it anyways. So after making sure they had all the parts that came with it which they did I went ahead and bought it. I got it home and had to do some adjusting to get it to fit my router (Ridgid plunge) which was easy enough. The only thing about that was for my perticular router it takes a little more work to remove the base when using it outside of the FMT even though the base will fit most routers with easy on and off adjustment tabs but not mine.
Easy fix would be to buy a new router or just take the time 5 min. tops to take FMT base off and reaply my router base. I just always look for new excuses to buy tools. I’m beginning to think that’s my favorite part of woodworking. =)
The only other issue I have with it is that you can only go but about 1 and a half inches deep with your mortise but no real big deal breaker there. All in all it does everything it claims to and with a little setup and adjustment. I think ALMOST anyone can be making mortise and tenon joints in no time. I have a dedicated mortiser and a tenoning jig but would prefer the FMT.
So if you dont have a mortiser and are in the market for a good jig this may be the one for you.
Check it out here.
Easy fix would be to buy a new router or just take the time 5 min. tops to take FMT base off and reaply my router base. I just always look for new excuses to buy tools. I’m beginning to think that’s my favorite part of woodworking. =)
The only other issue I have with it is that you can only go but about 1 and a half inches deep with your mortise but no real big deal breaker there. All in all it does everything it claims to and with a little setup and adjustment. I think ALMOST anyone can be making mortise and tenon joints in no time. I have a dedicated mortiser and a tenoning jig but would prefer the FMT.
So if you dont have a mortiser and are in the market for a good jig this may be the one for you.
Check it out here.
WoodRiver Pro HVLP Spray Gun with 600cc Plastic Cup
This is a great gun. If you have never tried a gravity feed HVLP you are in for a treat. You might actually enjoy finishing your projects! Exact same gun as the Porter Cable PSH1, except no air regulator. Just use the regulator on your compressor. Beautiful finish with shellac or lacquer. I even spray stain with it on large jobs. This was $25 on sale, but I think regular price is only $35. It comes with a 1.4 mm tip which is good for lacquer and shellac. They sell an inexpensive 2 mm tip and nozzle kit for spraying paint.
Rockler Diamond Sharpening Hones
I really like these little diamond hones for sharpening carbide router bits. Just a few strokes on the back, flat edge of your bits will restore a sharp edge. Comes with three grits. This can save you money and avoid throwing away dull bits, or worse yet ruining expensive lumber.
Worth a try.
DELTA 37-275X X5 Professional 6-Inch 1-Horsepower Jointer, 120/240-Volt 1-Phase
After my little Craftsman 4” jointer died, circ 1951, I decided to up grade. I looked at a lot of brands and me being a big Delta fan I decided to go with there DeltaX5 6” professional jointer. This machine comes in two boxes one contains the motor/stand, and other goodies. The other box has the jointer and fence system. Once again I have to deal with a heavy Delta box. The machine took about an hour to put together.. One thing that is nice is Delta already mounts the motor, and the bolts are loose so the woodworker can make any adjustments to motor.
One thing I might add is how quite this machine is. You could work all night with out waking anyone up.
This jointer is like the Porsche of jointers. Its got it’S class and a little blinnn…and the motor size is just right…
The switch is on a very well constructed support and is easy to turn on and off.
With the 46” long bed, long boards have no problems with support.
That is the end of the review. This jointer was 99% trouble free.
I had a problem putting the cutter head guard on but was able to get it on and working.
One thing I might add is how quite this machine is. You could work all night with out waking anyone up.
This jointer is like the Porsche of jointers. Its got it’S class and a little blinnn…and the motor size is just right…
The switch is on a very well constructed support and is easy to turn on and off.
With the 46” long bed, long boards have no problems with support.
That is the end of the review. This jointer was 99% trouble free.
I had a problem putting the cutter head guard on but was able to get it on and working.
Rockler Pizza Cutter
If you are looking for a nice project for the pizza lover in your family, this is it!
Extremely well made, heavy- 12.5 ounces (without the handle), sharp, and the blade is mounted on the axle so there is absolutely no “wobble”. The cutter also includes a threaded insert for the handle- so the handle can be removed and the cutter place in the dishwasher-and an allen wrench to help thread the insert into your handle.
The instructions are well written, including tips on how to get the insert straight as it is threaded into the handle. I ran into one problem, however, and it was probably my fault. During the insert installation, my first handle split. The split occurred on a glue line so I suspect the joint was not glued properly. In addition, what I failed to notice was that the threaded insert is tapered on the outside.
On the second handle, I took some extra precautions- just in case. A cushioned hose clamp relieved the pressures created by the tapered insert. Also once the insert was started, using the allen wrench, and the technique for tapping a hole in metal; thread in a little, back out a little; the operation was completed without a problem.
At $19 it is a little expensive but when you pick it up and use it you will realize it is not overpriced. I think these will be on the list for Christmas gifts for a few of the relatives.
Stanley Low Angle Block Plane
I just got this plane last week and put it through it’s paces. One thing I noticed right away is that thick toe!
In the jointer review, I complained about the uncomfortable tote, but for some reason, I don’t notice it as much with the jack. I think this may partly be due to the weight, or maybe the jack is better balanced? I am not sure.
What I am sure about is that this plane is awesome. It is great as a shooting board plane. I also have a blade to use it as a smoother, and another blade with more camber as a jack. Swapping blades is very quick and easy. Only problem I have is that adjusting the blade is a little hard to do. Sometimes, when I move the blade in or out, the blade also moves laterally. I also have this problem with the jointer, but it’s not too bad of a problem. Switching blades and adjusting it is still faster with this plane over a traditional bevel down plane (at least for me).
If I can only have one plane, this would definitely be it. I like this plane a lot!
Woodriver #4 Plane
When I first bought this plane, I was pretty impressed with it. I think it looks nice, and it’s built very well.
Out of the box, the blade was not sharp at all. The back was pretty flat, and it didn’t take long to flatten the back and hone the bevel (probably 15 minutes on my oilstones).
I checked to see if the sides were square, but they were slightly off. I also checked to see if the sole was flat, but it was slightly concave.
But most importantly, how did it work? I was worried about the sole, but tried it out anyways. It produced nice thin shavings, so I was glad to see that the slightly concave sole didn’t really affect it.
I also have the Veritas BU Jointer and LA Jack. Compared to these, the WoodRiver is definitely not in their league when it comes to ease of use and adjustments. When I put a smoothing blade into my LA Jack, it does not take much time to adjust it to produce nice shavings. With the WoodRiver, it takes a little longer to get there. The depth adjustment works well, but I found the lateral adjust to be a little “jumpy”. For some reason, I kept overshooting and kept having to move it left, then right, then left, etc. It took a few tries to get the right setting.
I also find that the WoodRiver tote is a little cramped. I think I have average sized hands, so a person with big hands probably will feel very uncomfortable with this tote.
But, if all you’re looking for are good results, the WoodRiver can get you there. It’ll just take more time.
Permatex Painter's Clean Hand Cleaner with Pumice
Like most of us, I get into different stuff that requires a bit more than soap and water to get off my hands and forearms. For as long as I can remember I’ve used the gojo, orange cleaner with pumice, mineral spirits, sometimes acetone, even gasoline to get the various stains, finishes and glues off.
A couple of weeks ago, I was in the local Sherwin Williams paint store and saw this product for $5.49. I asked the manager if it was good stuff. He laughed and said that he couldn’t keep it on the shelf and that the Sherwin Williams employees use it as well. So I got one of the remaining two.Thus far, it has easily removed oil-based spray primer, oil-based spray and brushed enamel, MinWax stain, BLO, and spray and brushed urethane clear.
I like it best because you rub the non-flammable and non-toxic cleaner only into your hands, then either rinse with water and wipe dry or just wipe dry if not too much of a mess. I eventually throw the towel away with no worries about spontaneous combustion, etc.
I do recommend this product.
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